Wednesday, 20 January 2010

Milan Menswear A/W 2010 Part I

So here comes the first of my inevitable posts about the menswear from the Milan shows for Autumn/Winter 2010.  It's been all over Vogue and, and of course tweeted and blogged about all over the world.  And now it's my turn...

I have decided, instead of going through the shows collection by collection in full, I am just going to write about the shows which impressed me the most, either in terms of vision, or because they produced clothes that I really really want to get my hands on :).  Take Alexander McQueen for example.  It might well be that the bone-y prints that covered everything from bags to suits, shirts to fur-collared coats, were both intricate and exquisite, but I couldn't actually find a single piece of the collection that I want to own personally.  And I can wear some pretty crazy things.  Also, I thought the show looked very bland, not only because many of the pieces were very similar, but also because the runway and set was decked out with the same patterns, so that the clothes were literally camouflaged.  For this reason, I won't be discussing the McQueen collection any further, although I am definitely looking forward to whatever he has in store for us in Paris, coming soon...

Which brands did I enjoy then?  In this installment I'll be discussing Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, and Gianfranco Ferré.  I'd hoped to be able to keep this blog down to maybe two posts, but since I'm only up to 'G' it might be more like three or four, so stay tuned for the next posts!

From the first Burberry Prorsum image above you can see some fur-lined boots that I am going to need if Britain's weather continues to go climate-change-crazy.  And trowsers tucked into boots? Yes, please!  The camel coat isn't too bad either!  But mainly, I liked the knitwear in this collection.  This white piece on the right has furry fluffy sleeves that look almost like macramé.  Below is a sweater in the best shade of almost-fluorescent mustard-yellow.  I had though my Marc Jacobs sweater had achieved the perfect fluoro daywear, but now I find Burberry has surpassed it...  I absolutely adore the gold military epaulets on the black sweater below right, there is something old-style McQueen menswear about them.


But if you don't think you can get away with wearing gold to the supermarket, then maybe you should opt for this toned-down yet equally gorgeous purple piece?


It appears the designers at Costume National are complete channeling my favourite look of the moment: all black.  Long black coat? Check.  Black leather Gloves? Check.  Loose black trousers tucked into sleek black leather boots? Double check.  The black coat below right is stunning, totally loving the folded/pleated/ruffled-ness that is going on around the neck of it.

And what goes best with black?  Grey.  Grey coats, metallic grey tops, and grey paneling on futuristic tux jackets.  I like the idea of teaming the more fitted jackets and tops with looser, draw-string trousers, which are prevented from becoming totally shapeless by narrowing the ankles, or tucking them into boots as above.  There are so many individual pieces from this collection that could find a place in my wardrobe...


The look at Dolce & Gabbana was a little more relaxed and old-school masculine, but my favourite colour palette prevailed.  Mmmm slouchy jersey trousers that are just waiting to crumple up around the tops of the boots that I apparently will never be out of. 

They did produce a few sharp, simple and smart looks, which made me think of Sicily and the Wild West at the same time.  But I really love the long-johns and grandad tops.  Over this winter I have become seriously addicted to long-johns, and then I found an amazing all-in-one on the Topman website.  However, am I ready to wear them as outwear?  Maybe if I looked like the model below I'd have the confidence.


These jersey trousers with their cross-over crotch will be mine.  (Or a more affordable equivalent)


Emporio Armani (which also produced some unforgivable ski-hats) managed to create these few gems.  The first, a total look in grey, is refined and chic, but the paleness of the fabrics combined with the darkened hair gives it a grungier edge.  Also, I can never resist a long floaty scarf.  Below right, a stiff, structured purple jacket perfect for nights out when I'm working in Düsseldorf (just the right side of eurotrash...).

Hello, perfect neon purple wonderfulness:


To be honest, I've never really been interested in Gianfranco Ferré, I always thought it was something they sold in tiny shops in Soho that people wore to sleazy nearby gay clubs.  But now I will always be wondering what the pair of designers who do Ferré will be thinking up next.  The collection is powerful, dark and totally my new look.  If I were straight, I would have a girlfriend who wore only Balenciaga and sulked around in darkened Tokyo nightclubs. 

Black and grey and white coat, with matching tie, grey trousers, taught black leather gloves, and the whole look held together with a bondage-style black belt.  Or should I go for the black leather trousers (yes, they have even got me to like these), black cape (Andre Leon Talley anyone?), and BLACK LEATHER WRAPAROUND BUMBAG!!  I've been strangely drawn to bumbags recently, and now I'm thinking maybe I need a leather one to give it a bit more "class".

When you need to be formal, then you should totally go for double-breasted.  And if you want to push the boundaries, strap on a nice shiny belt :).  And the pleated, baggy grey trousers would be a perfect work look.


They even had a go at putting the belting over the waistcoat (fur), but under the coat, creating two silhouettes in one.  Delicious.


So far, the 'trends' I am seeing in what I like are: black and grey colour palettes; splashes of neon highlights; interesting knitwear; contrasting top and bottom silhouettes; jersey; and boots.  Let's see if these continue.  Also, who knows what will crop up in the Paris shows starting tomorrow?



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