Thursday, 7 October 2010
Julien Macdonald SS 2011: Photography by Mike Lin
I was looking forward to seeing what Julien Macdonald had to offer for next season, although I can't quite believe I'm typing those words. Up until very recently I had, well, let's just call it a hate-hate relationship with Julien Macdonald's brand, which I always thought of as tacky, OTT (and not in the good way) glitter rags for footballers' wives. And then BAM! two seasons ago he started producing clothes I really loved. OK, so they weren't particularly avantgarde or adventurous, but somehow Julien had managed to absorb all the trends flying about him and edit them down to a couple of glamorous and high-quality collections. The bodycons and tailoring were razor-sharp and form-fitting, the colour choices were fabulous, and the sequins and pailettes were not taken to the extreme but were used to create a beautiful iridescence.
Which brings us to the SS 2011 collection, which has left me feeling rather let-down. Oversized jackets and bloomers made in what can only be described as clown pyjama material? Baby-doll dresses cut so short they are verging on the obscene? Not exactly the elegance I had in mind. To give credit where credit's due though, I do enjoy a wafting, floating train (of which there were many) and the white and nude palette was very fitting for Spring. The highlight - a skin-coloured semi-transparent floor-length dress, cascading outwards in softly draping folds. But these were only highlights in, what was for me, a seriously flawed collection...
Again, photography by Mike Lin.