Saturday, 30 June 2012

Bloggers' Yard Sale


Yup, Susie is reconvening her infamous bloggers' yard sale and yours truly will be contributing a big old pile of junk unwanted designer clothes.  So if you want to pick up a bargain or just have a nosey poke through my belongings check out the Facebook event details...

xxx
Duck

Givenchy SS 2013


Givenchy's one of those Paris shows I just can't wait to see the photos from – you can never really predict exactly where Riccardo's going to take it each season. They don't livestream so yesterday I was glued to NowFashion waiting for the images was working hard on my thesis while the attendees sweltered in the Parisian heat (Givenchy is notorious for running late). 

The collection is beautiful. Layers of satin in black, white and baby pink printed with digitally manipulated religious iconography in a sort of art deco style. Of course I love the skirts, the tailored waistcoats and jackets, and the bomber which seems to be cropping up everywhere. I haven't been instantly won over by those chain sandals but they might grow on me by summer. Actually, I almost bought a pair of this season's sandals in the Rue Saint Honoré store this week (40% off if you're in Paris, btw) but finding a birthday present for Mother in L'Eclaireur wiped out my bank balance. Next time...

The one 'issue' I have is the continued repetition of one set of graphics for each collection. Riccardo's work didn't start out like this but it seems now we just wait to find out what the chosen image will be, and then we'll see it plastered everywhere for the next 6 to 12 months. It's why I didn't buy into the rottweilers or the birds of paradise. The iconography is, in my opinion, more beautiful than the past two seasons but the fact that everyone will be wearing the same picture puts me off splurging. In any case, the use of 'couture' fabrics will probably push the already astronomical RRP up even further.  Let's revisit my thoughts on this come January.


xxx
Duck

Images from Karla Otto and Style.com

Kolor SS 2013


Being a serious scientist type I didn't go on a Gap Yah (Mother expressly forbade it anyway) but if I had upped sticks to travel round the world in search of myself, I would like to have been dressed in next season's Kolor collection. Loose layers for hopping on and off jets, a dark blue jacket 'dipped' in brown jersey for comfortable chic, what I like to call Austrian collars on everything. I'd wear my Hare Krishna ankle bracelet I picked up in Mumbai with my neon Birkenstocks and slip on some Marniesque two-tone knitwear when the evenings turned chilly. 

 I don't want to go on a Gap Year; I want to go on a luxury, round-the-world sabbatical...


xxx
Duck

Friday, 29 June 2012

Parisian nights


One night, six collections, three delicious meals, four trips to L'Eclaireur and 8 macarons. What a trip...

Full posts on each of the shows I saw will manifest here as and when I find this ridiculously annoying bug in my code. Until then (and the rest of my London coverage), please enjoy this short photo diary from my one night stay in Paris. Many thanks to Mama Shelter for making me so comfortable once again, and a providing a lovely space where I could work. Not so many thanks to Eurostar who it turns out don't provide power sockets in cattle class – how's a boy supposed to write his thesis when his laptop battery burns out?! 

P.S. It was really nice to meet up with Disney Roller Girl and The Very Simon G for salads and bitching, but Dress Me Best Jess was sorely missed! 

P.P.S. Photo descriptions below...


Photos in order: Colours at the Kolor show; lunch at La Favorite in the Marais; scuba-chic at the Louis Vuitton show; model resting at Y Project; my room in Mama Shelter; Shrek mask lighting; plastic fantastic John Lawrence Sullivan show; paper gowns at Issey Miyake; Jean Paul Gaultier does turbans for men; bag and sandals from Kolor; pleated culottes at JPG; sleeping Y Project beauty. 

xxx
Duck

Tuesday, 26 June 2012

Encased


I spent weeks searching for the perfect iPhone cover. I needed one to a) protect my iPhone from drunken stumbles (I'd rather not shatter the back on a Brussels cobblestone again) and, more importantly, b) render the black phone more visible in low light conditions, such as the darkened back of a taxi cab....  I searched long and hard and eventually settled on a Weston crystal-print after eliminating the rubber Hello Kitty number that came in a close second.   Oh yeah, and then that American bitch at the McQ show stole my phone, and with it my perfect covering, now sold out :(

I've been going for about two months case-less but thankfully I found this woven beauty in the bottom of a gift bag from the Mr Porter/Esquire/Jimmy Choo party (pictured above charging at the St Martin's Lane bloggers' suite during fash week).  Finally my hardware is protected!  Of course, now that I've put said case on the phone, I can't get the blasted thing off to look at the label.  So if anyone would care to inform me of the brand name... I will offer sexual favours I would be very grateful. 

P.S. this was the same party that I TOUCHED JON HAMM'S ARM.   It's also the party where I accosted Matt Smith, confessed my Doctor Who-geekdom and then apparently badgered him about the lack of ethnic minority Doctors.  This is why I shouldn't be allowed near an open bar when there are celebrities roaming freely.   I didn't take my camera with me so the only photo I've been able to find of me and my outfit from that night is below (with Bainser):


I think we can assume I was under the influence here (wearing Jil Sander harness over Alexander Wang shirt dress).

Btw, while we're on the topic of cases, I also love Joe's Valextra iPhone holder I spotted when he was sitting next to me at the Oliver Spencer show. If only I could justify the expense...


In a few short hours (*sob*) I'll be back on the railroad, this time to Paris.  Sadly this season I won't be attending any parties but will be locked up in my hotel room working on my thesis.  I've recently discovered trains are the perfect place to work so travelling in many ways actually boosts my productivity!  Something about the rocking really helps me focus.  Anyway, I'll definitely be popping out to catch the Issey Miyake show, where apparently there's going to be a big surprise...  But then it's nose very much back to the grindstone!

xxx
Duck

Sunday, 24 June 2012

Xander Zhou SS 2013


When a new name appears on the fashion week schedule I often have no idea what to expect.  When it's a brand that has already been successful abroad and has now been brought to London (presumably to 'up' its presence in front of the international press) my interest is decidedly piqued.  Which is why I enjoyed Xander Zhou's SS 2013 show, Fleurdalism, so very much.  

The sleeveless t-shirts and shirts were just the right side of sexy (if only I could wear them) and the all-white looks were pristine, verging on ethereal.  I loved the bomber jacket (starting another obsession) with black piping and Le Petit Prince-meets-Snow White scarf and jacket combo.  He may have lost me with some of the oversized, high-necked coats but, for me, a suit made from fabric lightly quilted in a grid-like design stole the show.  The irony that it was modelled by a James Marsters look-a-like when I always had a thing for one Mr Xander Harris was not lost on me.  

I almost don't want to mention the Raf references for fear of sounding like a broken record labelled Lynn & Horst.  Let's just point out that Xander studied industrial design before fashion, and leave it at that.     


xxx
Duck

Saturday, 23 June 2012

Jil Sander for Raf Simons for Jil Sander SS 2013

Jil Sander menswear Spring Summer 2013

What, you weren't just livestreaming the Jil Sander SS 2013 show?  You missed the fashion moment of the season?  The return of Jil herself to her namesake label?  Wtf?

To say I was worried about Jil's return is an understatement.  Raf's sudden departure left us all a bit shell-shocked and having not discovered my own love for minimal design until well into the 2000s, I was not really accustomed to Jil's ways.  I wasn't just going to switch to wearing Dior womenswear so the only outlet for my burgeoning Raf addiction would be his own, slightly overpriced, label.  Yet I needn't have worried.

It appears Jil didn't stray too far from the legacy Raf has left at the brand.  Maybe this was due to pressure from above (money talks, don't ya know), perhaps she didn't have time to replace the in-house design team.  Surely they had already started working on SS13 when Raf made his move?  In any case, it seemed like the classics of the past few years were still there: the boxy t-shirts, the simplistic yet bold prints, the tailored jackets.  Maybe the shorts were a little looser in a Swallows and Amazons sense than we'd have expected from Raf but this could quite easily have been one of his (admittedly weaker) collections.  I'm happy.  I'll probably get a t-shirt.  And a polka-dot printed jacket. And a(nother) clutch.


Now we just have to wait to see what Raf will do at Dior.  

xxx
Duck

P.S. Photos 'borrowed' from NowFashion.

Friday, 22 June 2012

Maria Francesca Pepe Man


I've been a big fan of Maria Francesca Pepe's jewellery for a while although up until now I've been operating under the assumption the line was unisex.  I found nothing particularly feminine in my gothic animal skull necklace, spiked chains and ring with golden horn.  Possibly the tubular bracelet erred on the womanly side but then with its minimal design I assumed anyone could pull it off.  But apparently that was the women's collection and Maria has now launched a line specifically targeted at men.  I got to see some of the pieces up close at the Hospital Club exhibition last weekend but I was so exhausted from standing in line for Pringle for 45 minutes (and then not getting to see the show anyway...) I didn't snap any pictures.  So here we have the press pics - and I'm not complaining!

Just as dark and punk as the women's pieces, the men's collection is slightly chunkier and more rugged looking.  Or is that just the model?  Maria's jewellery is generally quite affordable (you can often find smaller pieces under or around the £100 mark) so I will surely be getting myself some of these.  Not sure if I'll take up plier nipple-tweaking, though I'm happy to watch...  See you all at The Hoist!


xxx
Duck

Tuesday, 19 June 2012

Oliver Spencer SS 2013


Oliver Spencer's show, at least the segment I was drawn to, was a festival of primary colours.  A colour-blocked (I've decided that phrase isn't offensive to me any more, OK?) jumper would be perfect for the Northern European summer holiday I have planned for whenever my thesis is done and dusted.  The wide-necked blue sweatshirt would also come in handy, worn with Famous Five themed shorts and a backpack.  A zip-up suede bomber jacket came in a vibrant red hue (not that I'm allowed to buy any more, what with my preordered Qasimi AW bomber arriving sometime this month...).  Oh, and how could I not be drawn to the red and blue circular graphic of the season, emblazoned on t-shirts, walls and our invitations.  Part pie-chart, part make-up palette, it symbolises my own particular hybridisation of maths and art.

P.S. Yes, that is Topman Design creative director and general master daddy silver fox, Gordon Richardson, walking in the show.  Maybe he's found a new career at the grand age of 58.


Btw, when is this extreme-prep mode of dressing just going to die?  Joe and I felt like the only people at the show not wearing trousers rolled halfway up the calf (or even cropped that high in the first place), jackets with the collars up, pinstripes, pocket-squares and ironic glasses.  Why did dressing like a cartoon character* ever become cool? 

*Unless it's like a Powerpuff Girl - you are more than welcome to dress like that!!

xxx
Duck